1. Unless it is really, really, fast don’t do it.
2. The fuel delivery system has to be engineered in advance.
3. Exhaust manifold design is critical for tuning, performance, and reliability.
4. Inlet manifolding and plenum design is just as critical as #3 above.
5. Large capacity charge cooling is mandatory.
6. Oil feed and scavenge must be planned before fabrication begins.
7. Parts must be so well designed that long term reliability is insured.
8. It takes many years and thousands of hours and endless testing to do 1-7 above.
9. Most people do not appreciate 1-8 above.

FAST: We only use turbos that flow large CFM at low pressure ratios. Nothing we do has the capacity less than 3x OEM Horsepower. The defunct V-Rod Destroyers made about 165 hp and ran 9 second quarter miles. We give you 300+ horsepower capability...that’s double what a Destroyer had.

FUEL: RB Racing V-Rod Turbo Inlet Sytem;  V-Rods are Fuel limited even with larger Delphi injectors. 85% duty cycles with the OEM  4.81 gram injectors limit the bike to 130 hp. Taking the injectors to full static and limiting the boost you can get to 160 hp with lower B.S.F.Cs. No amount of Screaming Eagle Super Tuner (SEST) or TTS Master Tune software entries can cover the horsepower we generate.

EXHAUST: RB Racing’s V-Rod Turbo exhaust manifold has full 2” ceramic coated primary tubes, with a high velocity merge collector that is a piece of art. We do not do simplistic designs that have no tuning, with primary tubes that literally fire into each other. These are nothing better than “log” manifold. We keep it wrapped in plastic during the installation. It is ceramic coated. Tape on the frame minimizes scratches.

INLET SYSTEM: Inlet volume is defined as the swept volume from the turbo compressor discharge to the engine's inlet valves. RB Racing’s V-Rod inlet system has sufficient volume for the large bore pistons to breathe freely unlike cheap designs that actually “starve” the engine and stall the compressor due to inelasticity of the small plenum volume. RB Racing’s V-Rod inlet volume from the turbo discharge to connector tubing to the intercooler to the inlet plenum to the inlet valves is a multiple of the engine's volume...not one "coke can sized" plenum.

CHARGE COOLING: RB Racing employs a 360 hp rated V-Rod intercooler with ram air cooling, not an useless small intercooler turned sideways to the airstream simply acting as a heat sink, not as an intercooler. The intercooler is tucked in tight so as not to interfere with the rider. We keep it wrapped in plastic during the installation. It is polished and clear ceramic coated. With the cool air entering the plenum from the left side you do not have to cut radiator lines.

OIL SYSTEM: You do not have to alter or modify your engine's dip stick for a turbo drain. No drilling or taping required for feed or drain lines.

RELIABILITY: We routinely spent a year or more in development. Unless it qualifies as a daily driver we don’t do it. Unless you can go on trip with it we don’t do it.

ELECTRONICS: The stock Delphi controller is a very sophisticated engine controller that should be left in place a supplemented by our RSR AIC 400 for most street and high performance use. The same strategy we use on our big twin Evo and Twin Cam turbos. Stock injectors are horsepower limited. Changing the efi system to another ecu/ecm involves a number of drawbacks, the most important being is that you negate thousands of manhours of Delphi development. We keep it simple.

For pure race use, where sophisticated motorsport electronics are required, we supply  Cosworth SQ6M engine management systems for complete control of all engine functions as well as integrated data logging at up to 2000Hz. Costs are well North of $10,000.00 for the SQ6M in terms of electronics, custom mil-spec wiring, tuning and sensors. Expensive, but cheaper than all the other money you will spend trying to get multiple systems to handle spark, fuel, data acquisition, and other functions like traction and boost control. The real expenses are not the hardware...it’s everything else that follows. If you have to ask about costs you probably should not be doing it. We use the Cosworth Pectel SQ6M on our Bonneville Bullett race bike and our Road Glide Turbo.

COSTS: V-Rods are quoted on an individual basis due to options, finishes etc. Currently we recommend they be installed at RB Racing due to variances in individual V-Rods. You must schedule this well in advance. Bikes must be delivered and leave trailered. No ride in and outs.

New V-Rod Turbo Systems

Part #	Description	Details	Price
03-0008VR	V-Rod: Standard 2 Bolt Ports; Delphi EFI	250 HP Blackbird: up to 2 Bar 15 psi	$5895.00
03-0011VR	V-Rod: Standard 2 Bolt Ports; Delphi EFI	360 HP Pro Street: 3 Bar 30 psi	$6895.00
05-0001	Orca Digital Turbo Dash	Dual EGT Display, 3Bar	$795.00
03-1052	RSR Water Injection	Anodized Reservoir, Dual Stage, 220 PSI	$995.00
03-1013	Glycerin Filled Boost gauge Non-lighted	30 psi	$149.50
06-1003T	Dual Delphi EFI O2 Display (NB) Specify Year/Model of bike. Special Model that is connected to RSR AIC 400 Additional Injector Controller	Dual O2 Display (NB)	$295.00
	TTS Master Tune Software and Tuning Cable (see line below)	When purchased with Turbo	$450.00

Ordering and Payment Details

1. V-Rod Turbos are sold on a cash basis with a Bank to Bank Transfer of funds. We provide transfer details at time of shipment. No credit card sales. Order online 24/7, specify Bank to Bank Transfer, and we will provide details for Bank to Bank Transfer of funds.  There is a minimum surcharge of $50.00 on all bank transfers due to bank fees which occur on both ends of the transaction. Shipping charges are paid for separately by credit card. We negotiate the best shipping prices at time of shipment.

Customer is responsible for transferring the correct amount as the sending bank will deduct fees and end up transferring less than the agreed invoice which causes delays. Note: These items are sold on a direct basis only. They are not an item sold through any form of "Distributor".

2. Mandatory Items to Order: You must order Dual O2 Display 06-1003T.  You must also order either the Glycerin filled Boost Gauge 03-1013 or the Orca Turbo Dash 05-0001.

3. If you wish to order the 03-1052 water injection system it must be ordered at the time of your initial order as we must install a water nozzles in your inlet system. It cannot be added later.

4. Finishes are Chrome, silver ceramic, black ceramic etc depending on customer preference. We build to order.

Screaming Eagle Super Tuner...SEST (discontinued)

"SEST" or Greek for the worst written instruction manual we've ever seen. We defy you to figure out how to get various charts and graphs to open and how to get to the advanced versus basic tuning options. We suggest you look around the internet as the manual is of little help.

A few years ago we bought one of these to see what was involved. If you can figure out the software navigation issues and install a map that somewhat matches your bike, you simply ride around, observe the RSR Air Fuel Ratio Meter display and make edits. The tuning is fairly straight forward. Without the Dual Gauge we don't know how you would do it. We just ride.

Harley had to recall these after being fined. They are no longer available.

In the late 70's, all through the 1980's and into the mid 1990's we used to spend about 5 months out of every year tuning things. No time for that anymore. It's best that you tune your own bike...add up the hours and write yourself a hot check. Or just pay somebody. We use a Supeflow CycleDyn Dyno and we ride in the real world using our RSR Air Fuel Ratio Gauges.

ITTS & Exhaust Combo Military Discount

 

We offer a combined 10% discount to active or prior service both US Military and the Coast Guard on LSR 2-1 exhaust purchases with TTS Tuners and Cable Kits,

Dual RSR O2 Gauge: 06-1003 Compatible with OEM Delphi 12mm Mini-Switching narrowband sensors if the bike has "O2 Optimizers" eliminating the Closed Loop Function. Real world tuning while you ride...Observe and then make adjustments. Mounted permanently. Waterproof.

RSR O2 Gauge Billet Handlebar Clamp: 06-1025

RSR O2 Gauge Stainless Brackets: 06-1024

12mm Delphi Sensor Wiring Harness and Connectors: 06-1028 Required for either Open Loop Tuning (PCV, Dobek).

 

 

"Just wanted to follow up with you. This AFR gauge is a game changer. I think the tune on this bike is just about perfect, or as perfect as a one can get with a carb. I have every needle, main and idle jet available for the Mik48 and think I used everyone of them chasing the tune. Now with everything dialed in, warm idle will flicker between the orange and red light, cruise is at the left orange light and hard acceleration toggles between last orange and first red. Plugs look terrific, bike starts first thing in the morning without any choke, while riding around town the lights are relatively stable, some moving around but not much. Again, I couldn’t be happier with how this gauge works.

I am building a 124” TC to put into another FXR that I am building. This gauge is already on the build list, can’t imagine not having this gauge on any of my bikes. Thanks, Ed"

Customer writes: "Sounds like a FAST Harley!  Revs quicker.  Everyone that knows the bike immediately notices how the engine has better throttle response now.  One blip of the throttle is all it takes to spark envy.   It has a noticeable volume and powerful sound on acceleration complimented by a smooth deceleration growl.  Cruising volume is somehow arguably quieter than the V&H slip-ons that were on the bike previously.  The chrome is flawless.  Packaging was excellent.  It’s amazing how spot-on the fitment of the slip joints are.  The mounting bracket is perfect in form, fit and function.  Everything eases into place with a slow methodical hand.  Don’t force or rush the installation and you will complete it without frustration.  I bought the Dual AFR meter at the same time as the pipe.  I cannot imagine an easier way to tune with my TTS MasterTune!  I was able to actually improve the tune and power while maintaining 43 mpg. Thanks! Ryan"

Wideband O2  Adaptations

Systems that typically use Bosch LSU 4.2/4.9 wideband sensors for self-tuning have a built-in problem. First, the "map" has to be correct before any of this self-tuning takes place. Secondly, the real issue is the sensor response time, i.e. the time it takes the sensor to stabilize, and for the ecu to make a corrected output. No matter what they tell your there is a significant delay between the reading and the correction, during which time the engine will be at another rpm/load site . This can be on the order of 980 Ms for the Bosch sensors which is why, in dyno testing, they use step tests for a number of seconds, letting the engine stabilize at specific load/rpm points, before any measurements or changes can be done. Constantly rewriting RAM locations with "corrections" on the fly is never going to be correct.

The OEM narrowband Delphi system actually works twice as fast  500 Ms and the map, as delivered by Harley, is correct. The Delphi ecm has the ability to adjust about 20% in small increments (block learn multipliers) to factor for air cleaners slowly getting dirty etc. It already is self-tuning ecept at wide open throttle.

In short, taking off your fast acting, self-calibrating, Delphi system is just plain stupid. Use TTS MasterTune.

If you are going to use a chassis dyno it has to be a tool and not a toy. At RB Racing we use the Superflow CycleDyn as it best emulates the real world. We use it for development and not for publishing "dyno charts". Most of our work is with Pectel SQ6M controllers which have extensive internal datalogging and playback capabilities up to 2000Hz sampling rates. With the Superflow we can program specific tests and transient sweeps with our turbocharger systems up 750 hp in inertial mode or 500 hp in Eddy Current controlled accelerations.

For those of you who like Dynojet "Dyno Graphs"..read this article.

Steve Cole (TTS MasterTune) who has spent untold thousands of hours on every dyno imagineable has this to say about CycleDyns:

Steve Cole: "In the development side what I can say is the SuperFlow when setup properly emulates the real world much better. As an example the only way to get a DynoJet to give you HP and TQ is a WOT unloaded run. The SuperFlow allows that plus just about any other combination you like with real torque output. So what does any of it buy you becomes the question. I can tell you that if we tune to a DJ and get the best we can, then repeat on the SuperFlow using real world acceleration rates for the engine being tested the results are very different. Take the final calibrations and run them in both dyno's unloaded and the DJ developed type calibration will show the most HP and TQ in those conditions, on both the SuperFlow in DJ mode and the DJ. Then take the SuperFlow controlled condition calibration and load it in the bike the power will go up when tested in the SuperFlow mode again which can only be done on the SuperFlow.

Now the hooker, take the bike and put one of the finished calibrations in it and give it to the customer and say go ride it and come back after you've ridden it well, to know how it feels/runs. They come back after an hour or so then load the other calibration and ask them to do the same riding over and come back again. Each and everytime we have done this every customer has picked the calibration that was done on the SuperFlow under the controlled acceleration modes! So pick what works for you but there is a difference. Does it take longer, does it end with a measurable difference............. YEP!"

When we have turbo bikes like our Road Glide Turbo it gets a bit interesting to go testing in LA traffic with police, cell phone cameras, and freeway cameras. We still do real world riding with data acquisition as the real world is where you ride.

People want "Dyno Sheets"...see below. We aren't going to test every damn camshaft, compression ratio, piston confguration, cylinder head etc as there is not enough money nor time to do so. However, we do testing for our own race development, R&D, and our personal development platforms.

Dyno Sheets

People call us all the time asking for "Dyno Sheets" and we patiently tell them we do not provide self-serving graphs predicting fantastic horsepower and torque gains. Plenty of customers send us dyno sheets but, as we've been at this a long time, we know the tuning game is too complicated to provide numbers just to sell an exhaust. Tuning is a multi-variable process.

When the EVO motors came out Jerry Branch published his famous manifesto on tuning 80" EVO motors...In short, unless you bumped the compression the horsepower was not forthcoming. Same these days. In 2014 John O'Keefe of Branch O'Keefe ran an extensive series of tests on OEM Twin Cam cylinder heads to see if he could offer a "less expensive" ported head as everyone with a grinder in his garage was suddenly an expert at cylinder head porting. John found out that any attempt to clean up the ports killed the flow and port velocities dropped. He scrapped that idea and kept his well-proven chamber modification, porting and valve replacement system.

Logic seems to be in short supply when it comes to tuning. Tuning is not a pipe changing exercise. The world these days is full of customers who agonize endlessly over what to buy and then dump these parts on some unsuspecting "shop-tuner" expecting miracles. It just isn't going to happen. Coordinated development is expensive and time consuming. If it was NASCAR developer they might spend days searching for a few hp or a different curve for a specific track.

If you are looking for warm cuddily sheets we are clean out of them. We are tuners and you can buy all the trick parts in the world and a guy with a well tuned mild bike with a good power to weight ratio will kick your ass. Real world. Find a good tuner or become one. Look in the mirror.

New "Double Coat" Black and Silver Ceramic  Finishes

"Double Coat" Black Ceramic finish is the most expensive as it involves a triple process. First the parts are polished to remove any tooling marks.Then the parts are zirconia media blasted to prepare the surface. Then parts are cleaned. The parts are base coated with a Silver Ceramic ceramic base coat and then a second Black coating on top of this.

The Silver Ceramic finishes can be cleaned with soap and water and scuff marks can be removed with Mother's Aluminum and Magnesium Polish.

 

On our Dual Coat Black Ceramic LSR 2-1 Exhaust Systems the heat shields and heat shield clamps are ceramic coated with 2000 Degree F satin black ceramic finishes. These finishes resist carb cleaners and other chemicals. Our Silver Ceramic LSR 2-1s use silver ceramic coated heat shield clamps.

General LSR 2-1 Installation Sequence

1. Remove the OEM exhaust and exhaust bracketry. If the bike has floorboards remove the right floorboard.

2. Pry the OEM exhaust gaskets out of the exhaust ports. We use billet gaskets instead.

3. Install the frame or transmission bracket provided. Use Blue Loctite on the mounting bolt threads into the transmission. Lockwashers under the bolt heads on the transmission mount. If through-bolt like on early rigid Sportsters or Shovels use lockwashers under the hex nuts.

4. Front and Rear primary tubes: Install billet flanges and clips. Install front pipe loosely with billet gasket and nuts provided. Loosely affix the front heat shield to the pipe as you might not be able to install the shield later with the rear pipe in place. We use 1/4 drive ratchet plus extensions and 3/8" socket and a 3/8" wobble for the exhaust stud nuts.

5. If the rear pipe has a slip joint (rubber mounted C Style) slip the rear pipe into the tail section. You may use Permatex ULTRA BLACK.

6. Begin slip of tail section/rear pipe into the front exhaust slip joint (You may use Permatex ULTRA BLACK) and work the rear exhaust and billet gasket into the exhaust port. Loosely affix exhaust stud nuts provided. We use 1/4 drive ratchet plus extensions and 3/8" socket.

7. Slide 5/16" x 18 bolt(s) into slotted bracket on back of exhaust and thread these through the mounting braket. Loosely affix with lock washer(s) and hex nuts provided. Some exhausts may require a spacer (provided) between the exhast slotted bracket and frame/transmission bracket.

8. Gently tighted up all fasteners and nuts. Nothing can be in tension. You may use a rubber mallet to seat the slip joint(s).

9. Install remaining heat shields and tighten front heat shield (5/16" Nut driver). Completely wipe the pipe and shields down with a clean cloth to prevent grease and oil stains from being baked on.

10. Run bike briefly in place. Let it cool down and retighten fasteners. Reinstall the right floorboard with hardware provided.

11. If ceramic finishes it is wise to go through several heat cycles. On modern efi closed loop systems they go into closed loop within minutes. Let bike idle for a few minutes then shut it down to let it cool. Several sessions of this will cure the resins as they are only oven-fired to 400F. Exhaust temperatures are >1000F.

12. Double check all fasteners and ride the bike. Check your work afterwards. You bought a Harley so you are already showing signs of dementia.